This post has been a long time coming. The end of the semester was no different from the rest of my time abroad: it was crazy busy and time passed in the blink of an eye. This promises to be quite a long post, detailing my post-LAMDA journeys and I think I will make an additional post about my journey home and the true end of a great adventure.
On Saturday morning (April 19th), I took what would be the first of many visits to Victoria Coach Station. I boarded an early morning bus to Bath and promptly fell asleep. When I woke up a couple hours later, I was surrounded by picturesque, stereotypical, English countryside. There were sheep with their lambs, stone cottages, rolling green hills, and plenty of horses. I could feel my smile growing wider as we approached the town of Bath. Finally we arrived and I stepped off the bus into the crisp morning air.
First things first, I needed some caffeine so I grabbed some tea and was soon on my way. I should use “on my way” fairly loosely because truly I just started to walk. Eventually, I came upon the square that holds the entrance to the Roman Baths and Bath Abbey. On my way I stopped to listen to a street performer on his violin. He was a great musician. I picked up his card because it said he was on YouTube but now I’ve lost the card and can’t remember his name. (If anyone has been to Bath and seen this guy, let me know. I want to find him on YouTube!) (**Update! I was unpacking and found his card. His name is Joel Grainger. YouTube him, he’s awesome.) Anyway, I wandered into Bath Abbey. The inside was lovely but I think I liked the façade more. Framing the dominant front window were two pillars with angels climbing ladders up to heaven. I thought that was beautiful.

Leaving the abbey, I headed to the Jane Austen Centre where I heard all about Jane’s life from a well-costumed tour guide. I knew some of the trivia from my own studies but a lot of it was new information. I didn’t realize Jane Austen led such a relatively reclusive life with her sister and mother. After learning about Austen, I took a walk around the Circus and the Royal Crescent, passing the door to Jane Austen’s Bath home on the way. Bath is like a pop-up architecture text book. Everything feels entirely untouched yet well preserved.

Following this nice walk I returned to the Roman Baths to wait in line to get in. The queue took about 45 minutes but was worth every moment once I got inside. It is a whole little city unto itself, complete with hot water bath rooms, cold water rooms, and a temple. As an art history (and just plain history) nerd, it was fascinating to see these relatively well preserved remains of a vibrant Roman city.

After sufficiently touring around the baths, I decided it was time for some afternoon tea. I headed back to the top floor of the Jane Austen Centre where they have a “Regency Tea Room.” The lady working there was dressed in Regency garb and sat me at a nice table by the window. I ordered my Austen Blend Tea, some sandwiches, and a scone. It somehow worked out that Bekah was on Facebook messenger at the exact same time so, thanks to technology, I (kind of) had tea with Bekah! Finishing my tea, I had about 3 hours left in the city so I just started walking. I walked all around the city centre and then settled on a nice bench in the sun across the river from the rugby stadium. Bath was playing a home match and I could hear the thunderous applause and cheers from my perch. I enjoyed the sunshine, sportsmanship, and Pulteney Bridge.

Once the clouds started to roll in (as you can see in the picture above), I decided to keep walking. On my walk, I came upon the Bath Cricket Club. There were a few people picnicking on the grass just off the field (?), pitch (?), what do you call the area where they play cricket? Anyway, I sat down to watch for a bit as I still had some time left before I needed to get on my bus back to London. An extremely serious question arose as I watched: Does anyone truly understand cricket?? I watched for quite a long time and I think they make up the rules as they go. It really was not clear how or why they did certain things. Maybe it’s something you have to be born British to understand. It was eventually time for me to head to the bus station so I did and we headed back to London (via Victoria Coach Station).
Arriving back at Amy’s house, I had just enough time to shower and pack, and say another goodbye to Christian and Caleb (we were helping each other stay up all night because we all had early transportation to catch) before it was time to head back to Victoria Coach Station to catch my bus to Stansted Airport. And, with that, I was on my way to Berlin!
Exiting the airport, I got on the airport express to central Berlin where Roxy (my suitemate from last semester) met me to take me to her dorm. She lives a stones throw from Checkpoint Charlie. We dropped off my stuff and then went to meet our friend Julia for brunch. Julia was also visiting for a couple days and we had a lovely little trio to go exploring with. We enjoyed our food and then headed to an art gallery. Not just any art gallery, though. This art gallery is located inside an old World War II bunker. The Boros Collection is housed inside this bunker and is shown in installments. Currently, the second installment is on display and we were given a tour by a friendly German woman who couldn’t have been that much older than the three of us. She was passionate not only about the art housed in this historic building but also about the history of the space we were occupying. It was absolutely fascinating and I loved the pieces we saw. Below is a picture of the bunker that I took off of Google. Unfortunately I forgot to snap a picture of it as we left.

The collectors live in a custom built apartment on what used to be the roof of the bunker. You can just barely see it in this picture. Leaving the Boros Collection, we walked through a bit of the area of East Berlin that we were in before taking the u-bahn to go and see the East Side Gallery.

We walked along most (if not all) of the East Side Gallery before deciding to sit on the bank of the River Spree to enjoy the sunshine and sights all around us.

As the sun began to set, we headed for dinner and some good ‘ole German beers. Then we headed to the Brandenburg Gate and the Holocaust Memorial. Both were beautiful at night: the Brandenburg Gate all lit up and the Holocaust Memorial solemn and imposing.

It was raining and rather dark so the pictures of the Holocaust Memorial didn’t turn out well but it is a well designed memorial to commemorate that horrific event.
I was practically falling asleep standing up at this point (I had been awake for about 36 hours) so we returned home and I went straight to bed.
The next morning we had a traditional German breakfast at a lovely restaurant in a nice neighborhood near where Roxy goes to school. The food was brought out on tiered trays with meats, cheeses, fruits, and more piled high. It was delicious. Then it was time for Julia to catch her flight to Greece (still jealous about that one) so we said goodbye and set out for more sight seeing. We headed to Museum Island to visit the Pergamon Museum but there was a massive queue so we decided to skip it. That led us to simply walk and walk and walk around the city. I saw Berlin Cathedral, the Bundeskanzleramt (the German version of the White House), and the Reichstag, to name a few.

We walked through a park which was holding a children’s carnival and then decided to visit the Jewish Museum. I really enjoyed this museum because it took you through the entire history of the Jewish people and religion, not simply focusing on the Holocaust but celebrating the entire existence. For instance, they had an intricate illuminated manuscript version of the Jewish bible. I didn’t even know Jews made illuminated manuscripts! Though I suppose without entire monastic communities dedicated to the cause, it would make sense that they are much fewer and farther between.
That evening for dinner we went to an amazing Korean restaurant. Apparently, Berlin is known for its excellent restaurants excelling in various Asian cuisines. I had bimbimbap which was delicious. I even tried to order in German, with Roxy’s help, and nearly succeeded until the lady asked me if I wanted my water “with gas or without gas” …. in German. I looked at Roxy helplessly and she translated and then my cover was blown so I responded in English. Oh the horror! Actually, I did get mistaken for a German at least once when someone started speaking to me in German and was a little confused when I had absolutely no clue what they were saying. Thank you ancestors for your German genes!
I should mention that before going to dinner, we attempted to find this concert hall where a ballet was being performed. We thought it would be fun to see a show together but between Google Maps, the theatre’s website, and wandering around the areas it should have been, we could not find this theatre. After intently looking, we gave up and headed for dinner. Roxy, have you found it yet?? It has to exist somewhere in the city, right?
The next morning I had to wake up early and head back to the airport. It was a quick trip but we managed to cram a lot in and I had a great time. Thank you, Roxy, for letting me stay with you and showing me around the city you have fallen in love with!!
Flying back in to Stansted, I boarded a bus to return to… You guessed it! Victoria Coach Station! Then I headed to Amy’s house for a much needed day in. I edited my photos and took some time to just sit and relax. That didn’t last too long, though, because I had a ticket to see Imelda Staunton in Good People at the Noël Coward Theatre. When I arrived at the theatre, I found I had once again been upgraded to the stalls. Not to brag, but I think I have really figured out London ticket sales: Buy the cheapest, worst seat in the house as a single ticket. Pray that the show isn’t selling too too well and then they will upgrade you to a poor single seat in the stalls. It’s marvelous. The show itself was pretty good. I liked the production and the script was great. It takes place in Boston, mostly South Boston. As such, many of the jokes were decidedly American in quality which left me as the lone laugher at times. There was one part that I legitimately cackled at and the stiff upper lip British lady in front of me turned around and stared. Sorry lady. That joke was too funny to stifle my laughter. Imelda Staunton is a powerhouse, and she’s maybe five feet tall. At times, she was carrying that show on her petite back and rocking every moment of it. I thoroughly enjoyed myself. My walk to the tube after the show took me right by the stage door. As I passed, Imelda Staunton ran out of the door in cuffed jeans and a fleece pullover. She signed a quick autograph for the person standing right by the door and when someone congratulated her on a show well done, she looked genuinely flattered. She smiled and said, “Thank you so much! I am so glad you enjoyed, thanks for seeing the show.” It was such a normal, polite, humble interaction. I always love seeing people I perceive as being immensely talented act like such normal people in real life.
The next day was April 23rd. St. George’s Day aaaaand Shakespeare’s 450th birthday!! I remember being in high school (it must have been 10th or 11th grade) and we were discussing how a milestone birthday was coming up relatively soon. I remember thinking that I would have to find a way to get to London for that milestone. Actually, not just thinking, I remember saying aloud that I would find my way to London or Stratford somehow, someway. Well, I did it and it was pretty freaking exciting.

I headed to the Globe around 11 to pick up my tickets for that evening’s performance of Hamlet. (More on this later but, yes… I was bursting with excitement.) The Globe had their full day of celebration a couple days earlier so I was free until I needed to get in line for a good standing room spot. It was a beautiful day so I wandered over to Borough Market, an outdoor food market nearby. I visited this market on what must have been my first day in London but I didn’t buy any food that day. This time, I decided to get lunch and dessert from here and sit in the sun to enjoy it. I wandered around to all the food stalls, trying to decide exactly what I wanted. I settled on a chicken burger and I definitely made a good choice. It was moist, well seasoned, and had some delicious sauce on the bun. For dessert, I bought a giant chocolate chip cookie. It was an afternoon well spent and my stomach was happy.
With some more time to kill, I headed to the Tate Britain. I still hadn’t been and that was really a crime so I thought I would remedy that. I’m so happy I went because this museum houses some of my favorite artists of all time. It was quite enjoyable to wander the halls for a while before returning to the Globe to get in line.
I wanted to have an authentic Globe experience so I bought the “groundling” ticket, meaning I would be standing for the entire performance but standing right at the stage. This is how the less wealthy (and therefore majority) of the audience would have heard Shakespeare’s plays in his time. When we got in the theatre, I wasn’t in the row of people leaning on the stage but I was just behind them. I was so close. And I was so excited. (Oh, and by the way, the actor playing Hamlet is a LAMDA graduate.)

The show itself was, in all honesty, mediocre. To be fair, I was just coming off spending all my time with this text and performing what I thought was a respectable version of it. There were aspects of the Globe’s production that I did love, though. The way they handled the play within the play and most of act 3 was inventive and captivating. What I found fault with, in particular, were the choices made about Hamlet’s character. He was rather goofy and quick-witted for the entire play. This didn’t give him much of a dynamic personality. Again, this is at least in part because we played our Hamlet as a much more emotional piece, a choice that I think I prefer. What was indescribably surreal was the fact that I was standing in the Globe, watching (arguably) one of the best plays in the English language, on Shakespeare’s birthday, having just finished a semester of intense theatre training. It was definitely one of those “pinch me, I’m dreaming” moments.
3 hours later, the play ended. As Horatio delivered one of his final lines, and one of my favorite lines in all of Shakespeare, I couldn’t help but get extremely emotional. My time abroad was very quickly coming to an end. I had just spent my last full day in London and all too soon it would be time to board my plane home. “Now cracks a noble heart. Goodnight sweet prince, and flights of angels sing thee to thy rest.” Thank goodness I had the excuse of the ending of a Shakespearean tragedy on which to blame my tears.
I headed back to Amy’s and gathered my belongings for my trip to Paris and to visit Emma! I arrived at St. Pancras International Train Station just before 5:00am and boarded my EuroStar to Paris. This journey has made me a true believer in train travel. It feels so much more elegant, classy, and civilized than air travel. You arrive 30 minutes before your train, pass through security with little hassle, and wait in a nice area before boarding your train. I’m a big fan.
An easy, brief train ride later and I was pulling into the Gare du Nord and making my way to the metro to Emma’s stop. She met me just outside the station with a pain au chocolat to welcome me to Paris. (Greatest arrival gift ever. Thank you Emma!) We dropped my stuff off in her room and then headed out to see Paris. Having had the great fortune to have visited Paris twice before, and since Emma has been living there all semester, we agreed we didn’t need to rush around hitting all the major tourist spots. This gave us the leisure and enjoyment of wandering around Paris at our own pace.
We started by going to the Tuileries, getting some crêpes, and eating them while relaxing in the sun.

Following the Tuileries, we went to the Montmartre area. I had never seen the Moulin Rouge so we walked by there first. Then we climbed the hill to Sacre Coeur. It was a beautiful spring day so we sat down on the grass to enjoy the view and the sun.

Some more walking, a coffee break, and a quick stop back at Emma’s room and then we headed to La Comédie Française. Somehow I had convinced Emma to see a Shakespeare show with me, in French, at a theatre founded in 1680 by King Louis XIV. We got in line and purchased our student tickets for Le Rêve de Nuit d’Été or, as us English speakers would say, A Midsummer Night’s Dream. I slightly over-estimated my French abilities and understood very little of the actual dialogue. However! The show had a post-modern design which left the set clean and crisp, allowing room for the words. Too bad I could only guess at what they were saying… Luckily this play is one I’m familiar enough with to follow the plot. Despite not getting every word, I’m glad we went. It was a cool, unique experience.
The next morning, we went to the catacombs. Neither of us had ever been and they were supposed to be quite a sight to see. We waited in line for nearly two and a half hours, which was excessive but the catacombs were completely worth it. As we waited in line, we looked up the exact history of the catacombs. When an above ground cemetery was filled to the brim and releasing toxic fumes of decaying bodies into the air, it was decided to move these bodies (and any further bodies) to underground burial chambers. The catacombs are filled with over 6 million human remains, occupying a former stone mine’s tunnels. I don’t think anything could have prepared me for what we were going to see. It was tunnel after tunnel of artistically stacked femur bones, skulls, and more. And it went on forever! Spaced throughout the tunnels were tombstone-like sculptures detailing when that pile of bones had been moved out of The Cemetery of the Innocents. There were plaques with poetry and quotations from various writers and temple-like structures in various places. It was an eery subterranean walk but certainly worth the wait.

After the catacombs, we were somehow hungry for lunch. We grabbed some baguette sandwiches and made our way to the Musée Rodin. Sitting in the middle of the gardens, we ate our sandwiches and then walked around. It had been drizzling earlier in the morning but it had stopped, leaving an overcast but nice afternoon to enjoy the gardens. We saw the sculptures and enjoyed the gardens, then headed in to the museum. There were some interesting studies for Rodin’s pieces. Everything was beautiful.

Leaving the Rodin Museum, we went to the 11th arrondissement and met up with Devon!! (For those of you who don’t know, Devon was my babysitter when Emily and I were little, little kids. We’ve kept in touch ever since and it is always nice to get to catch up. She’s living a fabulous Parisian life now and was the cause of all my mom’s anxiety that I would never return from London because she studied abroad in France and never left.) Emma had recommended Ethiopian food for dinner so we went to a little place down the street from Devon’s apartment. The food was delicious! Good thing it was, too, because my hands smelled like it for the next million hours (no utensils with Ethiopian food). It was wonderful to see Devon and catch up plus I got to try Ethiopian food for the first time. A win win all around.

We began the following morning with a trip to Emma’s local bakery. I got a pain au chocolat and gleefully ate it as we made our way towards Notre Dame. Having positively no desire to wait in the massive line to go in to Notre Dame, we headed towards our real destination: Shakespeare and Company. Wow. What a cool bookshop. My favorite section was the reference library on the second floor. You can’t purchase books from that room but there are well-loved books on every subject lining the walls. You could snuggle up with a book about anything and sit there for as long as you want to read and learn whatever you want. A very cool place indeed. (For more information, check this out: http://www.buzzfeed.com/krystieyandoli/what-its-like-to-live-at-a-bookstore-in-paris)

After sufficiently nerding-out in the bookshop, we walked down the bank of the Seine, looking at the knick knacks being sold out of the green boxes-turned-vendor stalls. Then we reached the Pont des Arts. There’s something about Paris that makes me feel so very artsy so I paused to take a bunch of photos. There was also plenty of people watching to be done as couples all around us made their own additions to the bridge.

By this point, the rain that had been falling lightly started to fall a bit harder. We thought it might be best to head back to Emma’s. We took the long way to the metro station, though, and on our way stopped in an unassuming church near the back of the Louvre. It was breathtaking inside. Respectfully, I put away my camera but I wish I had the chance to take pictures of it. It was magnificent and attached to the main building for the mayor of the 1st arrondissement. What luck that we happened to stop inside!
All too soon it was time for me to head to the airport and head back to London. Being in Paris with Emma was such a treat. Thank you, Emma, for indulging me in my ultimate nerdy-ness and showing me around this beautiful city. I’m so jealous that you’re still there. Enjoy your last few weeks! I’m sure they will fly by.
The flight to London was easy and quick. As I boarded the tube at Heathrow I was suddenly struck by the fact that the next time I got on the tube, it would be with all of my belongings to head back to Heathrow and fly home. That made me emotional, a foreshadowing of all the feelings to come. I headed to Amy’s, spent one last night hanging out with her and John, and then packed up all my bags for the morning.
Stay tuned for a detailed wrap up…
Until next time…
Cheers.